WELCOME TO PERIOD PANTY SCHOOL!
Today we’ll be adjusting your desired sewing pattern so that it can be used as a Period Panties sewing pattern! It’s super super easy, so get out your pattern drafting supplies and let’s get to work!
WHAT MAKES A GOOD PERIOD PANTY SEWING PATTERN?
I recommend the Arccos Undies, but you can use any undie sewing pattern that is comfortable for you! The only thing that’s important is an enclosed crotch. An enclosed crotch is when the gusset of the underwear is joined to the panty by a seam at both the front and the back, creating a pocket inside the underwear.
A pattern featuring an enclosed crotch will look like the photo above- the panty self does not have any fabric in the crotch area, and the gusset and gusset lining are the same shape, cut from the same pattern piece.
All of the Sophie Hines undie patterns feature an enclosed crotch, because I think it’s just a really high quality way to finish the inside of your undies. Because everything is enclosed, the life of the garment is extended because there are no raw edges or edge finishings that can unravel.
If your desired pattern doesn’t have an enclosed crotch, you can turn it into one super easily, with just a couple adjustments!! This high waist thong pattern of mine has a lined crotch, but as you can see, the crotch gusset (the piece on the far right) is only meant to be enclosed at the back seam of the gusset.
Here’s the thong all sewn up- notice how the gusset is enclosed at the back seam, but its front edge is simply serged and left to lay flat with the sides caught in the elastic. This method results in a nice smooth silhouette, but not what we need for our Period Panties!! Since we’re interlining the crotch with our absorbent fabric, the little pocket made by the outer crotch + the lining needs to be totally enclosed.
PATTERN ADJUSTMENTS
If you have a pattern like this thong pattern, where the gusset lining isn’t secured in a seam at both front and back ends, here are the steps to creating an enclosed crotch.
First, line up the gusset piece and the pattern piece it’s intended to line. For this pattern, the gusset is lining the panty front. Trace the edge of the gusset onto the pattern piece below.
This line will be your new seam! If you want a different shape or length of the crotch, taking into consideration your usual menstruation routine, now’s the time! You can adjust or shape this line any way you want.
If you’re not making any changes to the shape of your crotch, trace the existing crotch lining piece, and add seam allowance to the edge that will be the new seam. I added 1/4″ as this is my standard lingerie seam allowance. You’ll also be cutting two of this piece, for the outside of the panty and the lining, so mark that on your pattern piece.
Cut the new seam line on your panty piece. If you did change the shape or length of your crotch, this will be your new crotch lining piece that you’ll add seam allowance to.
Trace your newly trimmed panty piece, and add matching seam allowance to your new seam line. Don’t forget to add all your sewing pattern information –
- Your name or the brand of the pattern
- The direction of greatest stretch
- How many to cut
- Mark any folds in the pattern
- Pattern name
- Pattern Piece
- Size
- Notches
Next, trace your crotch lining piece again, and don’t add any seam allowance. Mark this piece as your interlining, for the absorbent layer in your period panties.
Don’t forget to remove any seam allowances that might be already included in this piece! As an interlining, the absorbent layer is very thick, and you just want it to sit perfectly inside the gusset pocket, not actually get sewn into the layers and make things super bulky. I took off the 1/4″ that was included in this pattern piece for the back seam.
There you have it! You’ll have a panty front and back, crotch, and crotch interlining all ready to make period panties!
If you’re interested in what’s in our DIY Period Panty sewing kits, read our post to find out! Next up in Period Panty Sewing School is how to adjust the length of an enclosed crotch.
Happy Sewing!
